The Science Behind Every Plant Exosome (phyto-exosomes) in Natuderma Exosome HA
Three botanical sources. Three distinct bioactive profiles. One formula built on peer-reviewed plant exosome science — and a commitment to harnessing nature's own intercellular communication system.
In Part 1 of this series, we explored what exosomes are and why plant-derived exosome-like nanoparticles (PELNs) represent a meaningful advance over both traditional stem cell extracts and conventional botanical actives. Now let's go deep into the three specific botanical exosome sources at the heart of Natuderma Exosome HA — and examine the research supporting each one.
All three ingredients are categorized as Exosomes + Growth Factors preparations, meaning each extract is enriched in vesicular fractions carrying both membrane-bound and intravesicular signaling molecules alongside growth-factor-like proteins that influence cell behavior.
— Ingredient 01
🌹 Rosa Centifolia
Exosomes · Growth Factors from Rosa centifolia Leaf Cell Extract
Anti-Aging Antioxidant Anti-Hyaluronidase Collagen Protection
Rosa centifolia — also known as the cabbage rose, rose de Grasse, or rose de Mai — is the iconic perfumery rose cultivated for centuries in the hills above Grasse in southern France. Beyond its fragrance, its cellular components carry remarkable skin-rejuvenating intelligence.
What the Research Shows
A landmark peer-reviewed study published in Chemistry & Biodiversity (Dubois et al., 2022) evaluated a hydroalcoholic extract of R. centifolia stems through bioguided fractionation. The results were exceptional.
The R. centifolia extract demonstrated 100% anti-hyaluronidase inhibition, 92.7% antioxidant activity, 60.75% anti-elastase activity, and 59.17% anti-inflammatory activity in standardized in vitro bioassays — outperforming several commercially available cosmetic actives tested under identical conditions.
The Key Bioactive Compounds
Three major compounds — never previously identified in R. centifolia — were found responsible for the extract's activity:
- Isoquercitrin (Quercetin-3-glucoside) — Potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory flavonol. Inhibits neutrophil elastase.
- Quercitrin (Quercetin-3-rhamnoside) — Strong anti-hyaluronidase and antioxidant activity.
- Euscaphic Acid — Pentacyclic triterpene with documented anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
- Kaempferol & Polyphenols — Flavonols providing UV protection and anti-inflammatory support.
Exosome Technology: The Breakthrough
Pioneering research published in Personal Care Magazine (October 2025) demonstrated via Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM) the presence of vesicular nanoparticles in proprietary Rosa centifolia extracts, with Nanoparticle Tracking Analysis (NTA) confirming exosome-classified particle sizes. Critically, in vitro keratinocyte studies demonstrated a +28% increase in CD63+ exosome release from skin cells — meaning the rose exosome extract actively boosts your skin's own exosome production.
♻ Circular Economy: The R. centifolia extract in Natuderma Exosome HA aligns with circular economy principles. Pruning waste from Grasse rose cultivation — otherwise burned or composted — serves as the raw material, transforming agricultural by-product into high-value cosmetic ingredient.
— Ingredient 02
🌿 Centella Asiatica
Exosomes · Growth Factors from Centella asiatica Extract
Wound Healing Collagen Synthesis Soothing & Calming Barrier Repair
Known across Ayurvedic, Traditional Chinese, and Indonesian medicine systems as gotu kola or "tiger grass," Centella asiatica is one of the most thoroughly researched medicinal plants in the world. Its track record spans thousands of years of wound-healing use and decades of clinical dermatology research.
What the Research Shows
A 2024 review published in Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy (Bai et al.) examined plant-derived exosome-like nanoparticles across multiple species, identifying Centella-derived PELNs as among the most biologically active for skin applications — particularly for modulating inflammatory cytokines and promoting fibroblast activity.
PELNs from Centella asiatica have been shown to carry triterpenoids including asiaticoside and madecassoside in their vesicular cargo — compounds that activate TGF-β collagen synthesis pathways and inhibit metalloproteinase (MMP) activity, the enzymes responsible for collagen and elastin breakdown in aging skin.
Key Bioactive Compounds in the Exosome Fraction
- Asiaticoside — Triterpene glycoside. Stimulates collagen Type I & III synthesis, promotes fibroblast proliferation.
- Madecassoside — Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant triterpene. Reduces TNF-α and IL-1β. Clinically validated for scar healing.
- Asiatic Acid — Activates the Nrf2 antioxidant pathway. Protects cells from oxidative stress.
- Madecassic Acid — Potent anti-inflammatory. Inhibits NF-κB inflammatory signaling.
Exosome-Specific Mechanisms
A 2022 study in the Asian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences (Kim et al.) reviewed the therapeutic activities of plant-derived exosome-like nanoparticles, identifying Centella-derived PELNs as capable of delivering bioactive RNA cargo that modulates fibroblast gene expression — a signaling mechanism that goes beyond simple topical application.
Clinical relevance: Centella asiatica exosome fractions are particularly relevant for aging skin with compromised barrier function, post-procedure recovery (microneedling, laser), and reactive or sensitized skin — addressing both the root cellular signaling disruption and surface manifestation.
— Ingredient 03
🌸 Centaurea Cyanus
Exosomes · Growth Factors from Centaurea cyanus Callus Lysate Extract
Anti-Puffiness Sensitive Skin Brightening Skin Resilience
The vivid blue cornflower (Centaurea cyanus) has a long history in European herbalism and cosmetics — the botanical behind "bleuet de France" preparations traditionally used for puffy, tired eyes and reactive complexions. The callus lysate form represents a significant technological advance.
Why Callus Lysate?
A callus is a mass of undifferentiated, totipotent plant cells grown in controlled culture. When these cells are subjected to controlled elicitation, they upregulate production of secondary metabolites and significantly increase secretion of extracellular vesicles. The lysate preparation captures both intracellular and extravesicular contents — making it one of the richest botanical sources of PELN-associated bioactive molecules.
A 2024 review in Foods journal (Liu et al.) identified callus-derived sources as particularly rich in tetraspanin membrane proteins — the same classes of proteins (CD63, CD81, CD9 analogs) used to authenticate mammalian exosomes — providing strong evidence for the vesicular identity of the Centaurea callus PELN fraction.
Key Bioactive Compounds
- Cyanidin & Anthocyanins — The cornflower's characteristic blue pigments. Powerful antioxidants. Support capillary integrity (anti-puffiness).
- Apigenin & Luteolin — Flavones with documented soothing activity. Inhibit histamine release. Ideal for sensitive, rosacea-prone skin.
- Centaurein & Centaurin — Glycosylated flavonoids unique to Centaurea. Antioxidant and mild astringent activity.
- Caffeic Acid Derivatives — Phenolic acids with UV-induced oxidative stress protection.
The Sensitive Skin Dimension
While Rosa centifolia addresses structural aging and Centella targets collagen regeneration, cornflower contributes the formula's calming and resilience-building dimension. Research on plant-derived exosome-like nanoparticles (Sarasati et al., 2023, Biomedicines) emphasizes the role of vesicle-encapsulated miRNA in dampening pro-inflammatory cytokine expression — particularly relevant for sensitized skin experiencing chronic low-grade inflammation as a driver of accelerated aging.
Pairing with HA: Hyaluronic acid and Centaurea cyanus exosomes share complementary mechanisms for periorbital concerns. HA provides plumping and moisture-retention visible at the skin surface; cornflower PELNs address the deeper microvascular and inflammatory roots of puffiness — making this combination especially relevant for eye area and periorbital aging.
The Synergy of Three: Why This Combination Works
Each of the three exosome sources in Natuderma Exosome HA targets a distinct but interconnected dimension of skin aging:
🌹 Rosa centifolia protects the extracellular matrix — preventing hyaluronic acid degradation, shielding elastin and collagen from enzymatic breakdown, and delivering powerful antioxidant protection at the cellular level.
🌿 Centella asiatica activates regeneration — stimulating fibroblasts to produce new collagen, supporting the skin's barrier repair machinery, and modulating the inflammatory environment that drives accelerated aging.
🌸 Centaurea cyanus calms and resilience-builds — reducing reactive inflammation, supporting microvascular tone, and delivering a callus-derived PELN cargo especially rich in tetraspanin-positive vesicles that communicate directly with skin cell receptors.
Paired with hyaluronic acid, which provides the hydrated skin environment in which exosome-cell interaction flourishes, Natuderma Exosome HA creates a complete botanical exosome ecosystem — protection, regeneration, and resilience working in concert.
— Experience the formula
Natuderma Exosome HA
Three plant exosomes. Pharmaceutical-grade hyaluronic acid. One formula engineered around the science you've just read.
Frequently Asked Questions
What makes Rosa centifolia different from other rose extracts?
Most rose skincare uses rose water or rose oil from the petals. Natuderma's Rosa centifolia exosome extract is derived from the leaf cell fraction using advanced isolation techniques, capturing exosome-like nanoparticles with documented bioactive cargo — a fundamentally different category of ingredient from traditional rose extracts.
Is Centella asiatica the same as cica or tiger grass?
Yes — "cica" is a shortened form of Centella, and "tiger grass" is its traditional name. The exosome fraction in Natuderma Exosome HA goes beyond standard cica extracts by delivering bioactive compounds in vesicular packaging that enhances cellular uptake and signaling.
Why use Centaurea cyanus callus instead of regular cornflower extract?
Callus cultures produce significantly more extracellular vesicles than mature plant tissues, especially when subjected to controlled elicitation. This makes callus lysate one of the richest available sources of plant exosome-like nanoparticles, with a higher tetraspanin protein content than standard cornflower preparations.
Can I use Exosome HA with other actives like retinol or vitamin C?
Yes. Plant exosomes pair well with most actives. We recommend applying Exosome HA after cleansing and before heavier serums or retinol — its lightweight HA base layers smoothly under your routine.
How long until I see results?
Hydration and skin comfort are typically noticeable within days. Anti-aging benefits — collagen support, fine line improvement, and skin resilience — develop progressively over 4-8 weeks of consistent use, in line with the skin's natural renewal cycle.
Scientific References
- Dubois C, Plainfossé H, Delcroix M, et al. "Anti-Aging Potential of a Rosa centifolia Stem Extract with Focus on Phytochemical Composition by Bioguided Fractionation." Chemistry & Biodiversity. 2022;19:e202200158. doi:10.1002/cbdv.202200158
- Ashland / Personal Care Magazine. "Exoblossom™: Harnessing Flower-Released Exosomes." Personal Care Global. October 2025, pp. 6–7.
- Bai C, Liu J, Zhang X, Li Y, et al. "Research status and challenges of plant-derived exosome-like nanoparticles." Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy. 2024;174:116543. View on PubMed
- Liu Y, Ren C, Zhan R, et al. "Exploring the Potential of Plant-Derived Exosome-like Nanovesicle as Functional Food Components for Human Health: A Review." Foods. 2024;13:712.
- Kim J, Li S, Zhang S, Wang J. "Plant-derived exosome-like nanoparticles and their therapeutic activities." Asian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences. 2022;17(1):53–69.
- Sarasati A, Syahruddin MH, Nuryanti A, et al. "Plant-Derived Exosome-like Nanoparticles for Biomedical Applications and Regenerative Therapy." Biomedicines. 2023;11(4):1053.
- Tienda-Vázquez MA, Hanel JM, et al. "Exosomes: A Promising Strategy for Repair, Regeneration and Treatment of Skin Disorders." Cells. 2023;12(12):1625.
- Sreeraj H, AnuKiruthika R, et al. "Exosomes for skin treatment: Therapeutic and cosmetic applications." Nano TransMed. 2024;Vol 3.
- Creative Biolabs — Rose-Derived Exosome Research: creative-biolabs.com/exosome/rose-derived-exosome.htm
- Creative Biolabs — Plant Exosome Products Catalogue: creative-biolabs.com/exosome/category-plant-exosome-products-1433.htm
Back to Part 1: What Are Exosomes in Skincare? Exosomes vs Stem Cells →
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